Shaoxing Mujia Textile Co., Ltd. publishes MJ1212, a 20 percent linen 80 percent viscose slub at 180 GSM in 164 colours, and states the marker rule: cut every panel in one direction, because slub has direction.

Zhuji, China – November 12, 2026 – Shaoxing Mujia Textile has published the colour card for MJ1212, a 20 percent linen and 80 percent viscose slub at 180 GSM (grams per square metre), together with the rule that decides whether the cloth performs: every panel on the marker has to be cut in the same direction.

A slub is a yarn spun with deliberate thick and thin places. The rule is not a finishing detail, because slub has direction. The thick sections run predominantly one way through the warp, and two panels cut in opposite directions show a visible tone break at the seam even when the shade measures identical. A buyer meeting it for the first time may read it as a dyeing fault and raise a claim, although the shade measurement will show that the two panels match.

The irregularity is introduced at spinning. The spinner varies the draft, the rate at which the fibre bundle is attenuated between the back and the front rollers, so the yarn leaves the frame with periodic thick sections. The thick places are thicker by design; the thin places between them are the same yarn running at normal draft. The pattern follows the profile of the cam that drives the draft change, and it also follows how the fibre happened to lie on the day.

That combination is why a slub rhythm cannot be reproduced from a photograph. Composition, weight, width and colour can all be matched by a mill working from a sample card. The rhythm cannot, because it is a function of a specific cam profile running on a specific set of fibres.

The commercial consequence is that a slub quality is not a commodity in the way a plain quality is. A plain viscose at 180 GSM is often compared between suppliers mainly on price. A buyer who builds a range on a slub cannot move to another mill without changing the look of the garment.

MJ1212 runs 20 percent linen and 80 percent viscose at 180 GSM, 138 to 140 cm wide, in 164 ready colours. Minimum is 300 m per colour on the standard card; a shade outside the card joins the 2,000 m customer-matched line. Running lead time is about 15 days after colour confirmation.

The 80 percent viscose is doing the draping. Linen alone at this weight is stiff and creases hard. Viscose softens the hand and lets the cloth fall, while the 20 percent linen supplies the dry, slightly crisp surface that reads as linen at three metres.

“A slub is decided at the spinning frame, not at the finishing plant,” says Zhou Jia, founder and director of Shaoxing Mujia Textile Co., Ltd. “The cam profile is what a buyer is really ordering, and it is the part that has to be held constant from one lot to the next.”

The marker rule is as follows. Cut every panel in the same direction along the warp, and mark the direction on the marker so that the cutting room cannot reverse a piece. A panel cut against the run of the others shows a tone break at the join under most light and under all light from a low angle. The same applies to the sleeve against the body and to the pocket flap against the front.

There are three checks a buyer can run on a sample before committing to bulk.

The first check is to hold the cloth to a light. Slub reads as a rhythmic variation in opacity, repeating at a spacing of a few centimetres. Random clumping with no rhythm is a spinning fault rather than a design; a repeating rhythm is the design.

The second is to rub two layers together for ten seconds. A viscose-rich blend pills at the surface if the finish is short. A light halo is normal. Pills are not.

The third is to wet a corner and let it dry flat. Linen-viscose at 180 GSM dries with a soft crease. A hard crease means more linen in the blend than the ticket states.

For buyers who want the same fibre story with a softer surface, MJ8015 is the sand-washed version at 220 GSM in 211 colours. Sand washing raises a peach-skin nap and drops the weight of the hand considerably. It is a different garment rather than a heavier version of the same one.

The mill weaves in Fengqiao, Zhuji, on 30 Lenado air-jet looms in a 5,000 square metre shed, about five million metres a year, since 2012. The mill weaves and does not dye: dyeing and finishing run at partner mills, and the company holds the lab dip, the small dye sample matched against a reference, and the AQL (acceptable quality limit) 2.5 inspection on the buyer side of the order.

Specification and the 164-colour card are on the Shaoxing Mujia Textile page for MJ1212 at https://mujiatextile.com/mj1212.html.

About Shaoxing Mujia Textile Co., Ltd.

Founded in 2012 and registered in Zhuji, Zhejiang, Shaoxing Mujia Textile Co., Ltd. runs 30 Lenado air-jet looms in a 5,000 square metre plant and produces about five million metres of woven fabric a year. The company weaves in Fengqiao and works with partner mills for dyeing and finishing, holding the lab dip and the AQL 2.5 inspection on the buyer side of the order, with a four-point inspection on every roll, the standard system that scores each defect by its size. Full specifications are at https://mujiatextile.com.

Media Contact:
Name: Emily Zhou
Company: Shaoxing Mujia Textile Co., Ltd.
Email: shaoxingtextile@coze.email
Phone: +86 151 5752 5252
Address: No.5 Wenchuang Road, Fengqiao Town, Zhuji, Zhejiang 311811, China
Website: https://mujiatextile.com