The Mens White Dress Shirt — A Definitive Buying Guide on Our Favorites

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Originally Posted On: https://www.deoveritas.com/blog/mens-white-dress-shirt-guide/

Tour any guy’s closet and you’ll almost certainly find a mens white dress shirt.  It’s been a staple in men’s attire going back over 100 years.  To most men white dress shirts all look the same, which couldn’t be further from the truth.  There are a number of different attributes (collar, cuff, placket, etc…) along with fabric combinations that can change the look of the white dress shirt significantly. In this guide, we showcase a number of different fabrics and attributes suitable for different environments across all price points.

Milward White Oxford by Deo Veritas paired with black designer jeans

White Twill Non Iron Shirt from Deo Veritas

• Pinpoint or Twill Weave
• English (Medium) Spread Collar
• 1 Button Barrel (Rounded) Cuffs

This is the one shirt every man should have in his closet.  Pinpoints or twills are durable weaves that will drape you elegantly and not have any of the opaqueness you’d find with a lighter, thinner weave (i.e. Broadcloths, Poplins). Ensure a perfect fit by selecting a slim fit, i.e. more tapered through the arms and torso to achieve a more fitted look.  The English Spread collar is perfect for any occasion and looks equally elegant with or without a tie.  This is a shirt you can wear 1–2x a week for years with proper care.  As with all of the shirts here, we recommend either dry cleaning or machine washing on cold and then air drying. NEVER machine dry.  Dryers rob the shirts cotton of moisture which shorten their life.

White Twill Non Iron Shirt by Deo Veritas

• Basic (< $100): Bonobos — White Daily Grind Wrinkle Free ($98)
• Mid Level (>$100): Brooks Brothers — Regent Royal White Oxford ($120)
• Premium (>$150): Eton — White Signature Twill ($245)

• Deo Veritas — White Twill Non Iron ($120)

Andes White Pinpoint by Deo Veritas

• Twill Weave
• Italian Spread Collar
• French Cuffs
• French Placket (Fly Front / Hidden Placket for a Tuxedo Shirt As Shown Above)

Whether it’s a wedding, a funeral, or a job interview — every man needs a formal, white, French cuff dress shirt.  French cuffs are distinguished by their closure which requires them to be folded once over with cuff links.  Additionally, a formal white dress shirt should have a French placket which gives the front torso a much more streamlined look.  As for the collar, we recommend a longer point length (i.e. our Italian spread collar) since the points will tuck elegantly underneath your blazer lapels — a men’s fashion necessity.  If you’re not wearing a full tux, a pair of black pants / slacks will pair perfectly with this shirt.  Look for a slim fit to achieve a more contoured / fitted look.

Andes White Pinpoint by Deo Veritas

• Basic (< $100): Bonobos — White Washed Button Down ($88)
• Mid Level (>$100): Charles Tyrwitt — White Non Iron Twill ($110)
• Premium (>$150): Turnbull & Asser — Plain White Cotton w/ Classic Spread Collar and Double Cuffs ($335)

•  Deo Veritas — Andes White Pinpoint 100s ($130)

Milward White Oxford by Deo Veritas

• Oxford Weave
• Button Down Collar
• 1 Button Barrel (Rounded) Cuffs
• Front Placket
• Straight Cut Hem (Optional)
• Pocket (Optional)

A favorite for cool, fall weekends popularized by Brooks Brothers, is the Oxford Button Down shirt.  As the story goes, John Brooks (the grandson of the founder of Brooks Brothers), while on holiday in England in the late 19th century, noticed that polo players had their collars fastened to their shirts with buttons during match play. At this point, the proverbial light went off and Brooks quickly took the idea back to the States with the intention of bringing this novel idea to market. The button down collar itself is distinguished by it’s lack of interlining material or collar stays giving it the trademark button down ‘roll’ that is not seen on any other collar type.

Oxford cotton is notably one of the more heavy weaves you’ll find on a dress shirt.  It’s distinguished by a somewhat grainy texture that begins to soften after a few washes.  It’s rigid texture and low thread count requires minimal ironing, making it a perfect casual piece of attire.  Popularized by companies such as UNTUCKit, many men are opting for a shorter, straight cut hem in order to wear this type of shirt untucked.  Additionally, this shirt can optionally be worn with or without a pocket.  Additionally, depending on the occasion this is a type of white that looks great with short sleeves vs. long.

Milward White Oxford by Deo Veritas paired with charcoal / black jeans

• Basic (< $100): Bonobos — White Washed Button Down ($88)
• Mid Level (>$100): Brooks Brothers White Oxford Sport Shirt ($140)
• Premium (>$150): Turnbull & Asser — White Royal Button Down Oxford ($335)

•  Deo Veritas: Milward — White Oxford ($105)

White Linen / Cotton One Piece Collar Shirt by Deo Veritas

• Cotton / Linen Weave
• One Piece Collar (aka California or Cooper Collar)
• Cocktail Cuffs
• French Placket

A timeless classic that has become a sartorial favorite. As we’ve written about previously, the one piece collar itself is a single piece that extends through the front torso and doubles as a placket. This reinforcing effect is that the collar stands on its own, without collapsing under it’s own weight — as is common when wearing a blazer sans tie. Sometimes, hidden buttons are placed behind the collar points to help give the collar it’s distinctive ‘roll’. No top button and a curved top placket give it a uniquely contemporary casual look.

A mid 20th century classic, this collar was popularized in the 40/50’s via men’s style icon Gary Cooper. Consequentially, it’s sometime referred to as the Cooper Collar. For it to look / function as described, it requires a skilled pattern cutter and seamstress, making it primarily a custom / bespoke item.  We have listed one off-the-rack shirt maker below (Kamakura) which is skilled in the making of this type of shirt.

Linen is almost always synonymous with warmer, summer attire as it breathes exceptionally.  The drawback is wrinkling which give it a more distressed, casual look that is perfect for warmer climates.  This is one shirt that would pair equally well with a pair of stylish jeans or a pair of shorts and flip flops.

White Linen / Cotton One Piece Collar Shirt by Deo Veritas

• Mid Level (>$100): Kamakura White Linen Sciolto ($105)

•  Deo Veritas — Linda Meander White Linen / Cotton ($145)